Dishes for One, No Meal Kit Required: Cooking from Anita Lo’s Solo
Solo is a not a cookbook that serves 4-6. It does not leave you wondering what to do with your half empty can of fire roasted tomatoes or that extra fresno chili. You do not have to keep turning pages with messy fingers or learn how to properly stock your pantry before roasting your first chicken. Instead, Solo is an expression of solitude and an acceptance of loneliness expressed through the quiet and joyful act of cooking…alone.
When it comes to going it alone, Lo is not one to feel ashamed. As a result, the cookbook welcomes a series of “urban dwellers” caught in the purgatorial phases of life: whether you’re in between jobs, ending a relationship, living with a picky eater, or just a general lone wolf, the chef asserts that the book is for those who still “…like to cook a fabulous, sophisticated meal for themselves…for those who are happiest on their own” (Lo, xiii). I am a combination of two “solo” archetypes: unfortunately, my lone wolf personality was compromised when I began to live with a kind of picky eater. Mealtimes—and trying to share a kitchen—had therefore become increasingly problematic. My roommate is a fan of various meal kit delivery services, flooding our countertop with plastic bags, vacuum sealed ingredients, and expansive recipe booklets. When she wants to make her chicken stir-fry, I have no room for my cutting board to chop, season, and roast some veg. If I am using our favorite sauté pan she also needs, a rock-paper-scissors battle ensues. Thus to avoid any further arguments or crowding, I found myself hiding away in my room…scanning delivery apps—away from the kitchen, and away from cooking.
But when I discovered Solo in the cookbook section—with its bright red cover and bold white letters— I couldn’t resist flipping through its pages. Despite the book’s theme, it does anything but hide away from the spotlight; on the contrary, it begs to be opened, read, and cooked through. And this is just what I did.
Cover design by Kelly Blair, Illustrations by Julia Rothman
Flying Solo
At this point, I’ve gone through most of Solo. I dedicated about 8 weeks’ worth of weekends sourcing non-fussy ingredients, reading easy to follow recipes, and tasting the sweet and spicy satisfaction of eating a sexy meal for one. Below I have shared with you my process, thoughts, and feelings about my favorite dishes from Solo. I hope that these little recollections inspire you to do what I did—to love your loneliness and cook unapologetically for yourself.
Broccoli Stem Slaw
If you’re familiar with chef Lo in any way—seen an interview, watched her on Netflix’s The Heat: A Kitchen (R)evolution, or ate at her once very popular Annisa—then you know she is a huge advocate for food waste. Her stock and stem, nose to tail approach to cooking is prevalent in Solo and is at the forefront of many recipes. Although it is listed as a vegetable-forward side dish, I have since utilized the slaw as a filling in tacos or as a bed for a piece of chicken or fatty fish (salmon, for example). The recipe is not only simple and delicious, but drops a bit of knowledge on us all so that we can reduce our kitchen waste one step at a time.
The Recipe:
Straightforward, taking up no more than 5 lines on the page. Just read through it once and you’ll know what to do.
The Prep:
All items are easily found at any standard grocery store. However, the recipe states to use a mandolin to julienne the broccoli stems after peeling. I typically utilize my mandolin for more ribbon-like cuts, while the matchstick shape of a julienne is better-executed with a chef’s knife. I tried both ways and they taste equally good; I julienne for a traditional slaw-like texture to put in my tacos, and use my mandolin to create a sexy broccoli stem salad with grilled salmon. Prep and cooking in total takes 10-15 minutes.
Tasting:
First, that smell of tarragon hits you. Sometimes I find this soft herb a little aggressive, but in this dish it is much more inviting…its floral and citrus notes definitely brought out the subtle sweetness of the broccoli stem. The little spice from the red onion is undoubtedly the unsung hero, though. It renders all the flavors in balance and keeps every bite just as irresistible as the last.
The Leftovers:
Lo does not offer any notes of her own, but the ingredients are versatile and don’t take much thought to figure out other uses. I utilized my leftover onion and avocado for some homemade guacamole. Tarragon and parsley are herbs that basically work with anything: I toss them with veg, chop and sprinkle in salads, or add them to a protein marinade. You can also add them into any kind of “grain bowl”: quinoa is a good idea.
Shrimp with Cashews and Indian Spices:
I’ll admit that I considered skipping this dish when I glanced at the three paragraphs of instruction, the longer list of ingredients, and the necessity of a food processor or “hand blender”. Meh, too much hassle, I thought. But when I read about the chef’s attachment to this recipe, I became determined to give it a go. Luckily, it’s pretty darn tasty and not that tough. The dish is sweet, spicy, and completely comforting—everything you would want out of a home cooked meal for one.
The Recipe:
A medium-level recipe. Read through it a couple times before you start prepping so you have an idea of the little adventure you’re about to go on. It’s also good to know your baseline for spice so it doesn’t overwhelm the dish; definitely taste as you go. Overcooking the shrimp may occur if you’re not used to it, so keep a close eye when it’s time to sauté those guys (you want pink on the outside, translucent on the inside)!
The Prep:
Most of the ingredients are found in any grocery store. Prep in total took me about 20 minutes, and then another 20 for cooking, blending, and plating. I’m pretty sensitive to spice, so I added a bit more lemon juice to subdue the heat of the cayenne.
Tasting:
What I enjoyed most in this dish was the sauce: the book implores you to spoon it over the shrimp, but my blender consistently put out one whose contents lent better to dolloping and spreading. It’s optional, but I definitely think it’s necessary: some white rice absorbs the curry-laced sauce and adds a heartier mouthfeel against the silky, snappy shrimp. The tomatoes add that sweet acidity you’re looking for as your nostrils flood with a vibrant smokiness and the distinct, nutty goodness of cashews. I also used coconut water instead of stock (because that sounded kinda cool) and you can actually taste it—very subtly—throughout the dish.
The Leftovers:
Taking stock of what the dish requires, the specifics first come off as tedious. Garam masala and curry powder may also not be readily available at your local grocery store, and if these spices are foreign to you, finding additional uses might prove challenging (that’s why I’ve included links to other recipes below!). Also, if you need to buy bulkier, cashews make a great snack or a crunchy addition to a salad or veggie dish. If you feel awkward asking your fish guy for “just 5 ounces” of shrimp, get a ½ pound and freeze the rest for later.
Garam Masala Chicken, Genius Kitchen
Chickpea Curry, Creme de la Crumb
Broiled bluefish with Avocado, Grapefruit, Pistachio and Chilies
I’m sorry, but I hate grapefruit. It’s so freakin’ acidic to me that I find it much more bitter than sweet, muddling certain flavors on my tongue instead of highlighting them. As a result, I avoid using this ingredient as much as I can…But Lo’s idea to pair an incredibly oily fish with an incredibly irksome fruit—in my opinion—is a triumph. My relationship with the grapefruit is somewhat on the mend, but only when I can have it with mackerel, salmon, or bluefish.
The Recipe:
Easy, but teetering on medium-level. Read through it once or twice and you’re set, but sectioning grapefruit may be a new technique for some. Consult YouTube for some help if Lo’s description does not suffice (although I find it pretty clear). The fish method is super simple: you can utilize this technique for almost any fish filet and you’ll get crispy, tasty skin every time!
The Prep:
Getting your grapefruit sectioned is probably the most time consuming, but it doesn’t take more than 10 minutes. All in all, you’ll probably be prepping close to 20-25 minutes: pasting garlic, seeding the chili (I used jalapeño), and dicing the red onion doesn’t feel laborious if you have a handle on basic knife skills.
Tasting:
After about six minutes under the broiler, my fish skin was crisped to perfection. The first time I opted out of the pistachios, and it was not until I added them the second time that was I able to realize what they bring to the table. While the peppery red onion distracts from the intensity of the grapefruit, the oily fish and pistachios create a texture that is pure pleasure; taking a complete bite of the crispy skin, the buttery fish flesh, and the crunchy nuts makes you feel as if you could be eating a restaurant meal—except you did it all by yourself!! Not only did I feel proud to put out such great food, but to also understand this was a meal made strictly for myself induced a kind of relaxation akin to a solo Friday night of pampering.
The Leftovers:
Dice the rest of the chili and make some guac. If you’re feeling ambitious, you can even try adding to a coconut curry dish (you might be able to use some of that coconut water, too). I’ve also sliced jalapeño into rounds and added a couple to a margarita for an extra something-something. Pickle some sliced red onion with salt, sugar, and vinegar and put it on any salad. Take the pistachios in a baggie for an afternoon snack attack, or roast some beets and sprinkle some (chopped), on top with some herbs and a tangy yogurt sauce.
Roasted Beets with Yogurt, Pistachios and Coriander, NYT Cooking
Beet and Pistachio Yogurt, Food & Wine
—don’t worry, the pistachio oil isn’t completely necessary.
Curry Coconut Sauce, Real Simple
Cauliflower Chaat with Almonds:
“Chaat” is a word that holds a lot of delicious implications. In the Prakrit language, it implies “to eat noisily,” or “devour with relish”; from Hindi, it conjures an idea of a food that makes you “lick your fingers.” A typical chaat consists of deep-fried potatoes topped with yogurt, chunties, and vegetables (watch Netflix’s Street Food episode about Delhi, India to learn more); its textures, flavors, and tastes are all you need for an afternoon pick-me-up or a late-night bite. Lo, however, riffs on this idea and substitutes potatoes for cauliflower to act as the blank canvas to sauté, season, and enjoy.
The Recipe:
Easy. The ingredient list may seem daunting at first, but after your first read-through you’ll realize that this recipe doesn’t take long at all: about 25-30 minutes in total. More so than the others, I found the timing described in this recipe to be right on target, lending itself well to cooking with confidence.
The Prep:
If you have a handle on your knife skills, then this prep does not take long at all. Just some quick chopping, slicing, squeezing and sprinkling. About 15 minutes in total.
Tasting:
When the cauliflower florets are finished sautéing in your piping hot pan, the edges are just crispy enough while the inside is still fluffy, warm, and soft; much like a potato! I used garam masala from the shrimp recipe instead of buying chaat masala, but nonetheless I was still licking my fingers (pro tip: have some fun and eat with your hands. You’re alone, it’s okay!). The recipe doesn’t specify which onion type to use, so I chose a sweeter variety to mellow out the jalapeño and create just enough of a zing on the tongue. This spice mixture and the addition of cumin gave the veg a sweet, smoky flavor that paired really nicely with the refreshing scent and taste of cilantro in the sauce. The sauce’s base is Greek yogurt; it offered a tangy, creamy consistency and a calming, cooling sensation that sent a tranquil shiver down my spine.
The Leftovers:
If you bought a big container of Greek yogurt, use it to make a variety of sauces. Thin it out with a little water and lemon juice, add soft some herbs (parsley, cilantro, tarragon, mint), and throw in some spices (maybe even try stirring in some avocado or tahini). Toss it with a salad or spoon it over chicken. “Rice” the leftover cauliflower and use it as a substitute for grain (cauli fried rice, cauli pizza crust, the list goes on!).
Honey Roasted Carrots with Cumin-Lime Yogurt Sauce, Holly Grainger
—add some roasted pistachios from the Bluefish recipe, too!
Cauliflower Pizza Crust, Katie Lee (Food Network)