Chikara Sono's Spanish mackerel Oshizushi, in 100 Words.

Kyo Ya in Manhattan’s East Village has been headed by Chikara Sono since 2007. It was one of the city’s first, most authentic kaiseki experiences in New York. Chef Sono is undeniably a lover of food and a master of his cuisine; he cooks with an air of great seriousness but never hesitates to crack a joke, share a drink, or snap a picture. It was an honor to be able to taste his food at Kyo Ya on more than one occasion. By far, my favorite dish was his Spanish mackerel oshizushi. After 12 years, Sono is leaving the restaurant to start his own venture, and I could not be more excited to see what he will do. I would like to pay homage to both Chikara Sono and his time at Kyo Ya with this small piece: a description of my experience tasting his mackerel oshizushi for the very first time.

At Kyo Ya, Chef Chikara Sono places a wooden box on his counter. It is filled with warmed rice and fermented fish. He closes the lid, presses, slices and serves. This is his Spanish mackerel oshizushi.

You taste a piece. The ingredients—freed from the confines of that tiny box—explode. The concentrated flavors of supple flesh ebb and flow like the sea; small waves of sour, tangy vinegar from the rice undulate through your taste buds. It triggers an unstoppable moment of salivation. Your body softens as if wrapped in velvet. You wish this umami ocean could swaddle you forever.