Escape the Mid-Summer Slump in the Finger Lakes: A Weekend Trip to Keuka Lake
I have a problem.
It’s only mid-summer and New Yorkers are already declaring the season’s coming to an end. Yes, it’s been hot, humid, and overall disgusting—a wind-chill and some snowy precipitation doesn’t sound so bad, all of a sudden. But I think it’s time we crawl away from our AC units and give yourself (and New York) one more chance for summer fun. While the boroughs remain uncomfortably warm, there’s still a weekend getaway waiting for you filled with cool breezes, beautiful views, and—the best part—wine. I’m talking about the Finger Lakes region of New York.
Your summer bucket list might include some scribble about a weekend in the Hamptons or partying on Fire Island. When reality sets in after scrolling through those Airbnb prices, do some research on the beautiful wine trails of the Finger Lakes and stop worrying about finding the most perfect outfit to wear for those Pine Party events. A regional wine tour is the best substitute: take Friday for a fun day of travel, Saturday for a wine-infused field trip, and by Sunday night? You’re home! In bed! With bottles of great wine in the fridge!
Check out my weekend getaway to the Keuka Lake region, including travel tips, the wineries, and sources for tours!
FRIDAY
Getting There from New York:
Summer Fridays at work make it a little easier for everyone to get out of the city at a reasonable time for a weekend vacay. Alas, this means more traffic than usual. But fear not! Metro North is a fantastic option and gets you far enough outside the city to avoid all that congestion. From Grand Central station, two friends and I hopped on the Hudson Line to Beacon, NY at 2:30pm. Two hours later, we met our third friend with her car to make the four-hour drive to Hammondsport, NY.
Travel Tip: Car Rental
I know, not everyone has parents that live in Connecticut willing to lend you their car for the weekend. Good thing Zipcar and Metro North understand. The two have partnered to make travelling through New York state so much easier and affordable. Simply type in the address of your Metro North stop and find a Zipcar spot near you. Registering for Zipcar is so easy (I did it!), a membership is only $7/month, and a car for four can cost as little as $89 per day. Did I mention you get a complimentary gas card, too?
Learn more about Zipcar and Metro North here
FRIDAY NIGHT:
We arrived at our Airbnb by 9pm. What’s great about the Finger Lakes region is that an Airbnb often won’t cost you more than $150/night (a prime spot in Southampton? Between $220-400). Divided between four people, that’s a pretty good deal. Even more so when you realize your Airbnb can actually sleep double the amount. Just make sure you’re travelling outside of peak seasons (Labor Day, July 4th, or Memorial Day). As we sat outside enjoying roasting marshmallows and sipping vodka sodas, we watched the sun set lazily behind Keuka lake. The weekend was off to a fantastic start.
Tip: Food and Drink:
Hammondsport is a small town, and the nearest grocery store was about 20 minutes away. The solution? Stop somewhere before arriving and pick up some breakfast items (don’t forget the coffee), snacks for your future wine tour, and—of course—a couple mixers for your vodka and tequila. Most wineries will also let you bring your own food, so if you want to save some extra cash and pack a picnic, go for it!
Another tip: Buy lots of bottled water. Homes in the Finger Lakes region may have their own wells, which means you won’t have that perfect New York water you’re used to. Our Airbnb’s well had water with a high sulfur content (which made for smelly showers and teeth-brushing), which is not toxic but also not the most appetizing.
SATURDAY:
We woke up the next morning to a perfect, 75-degree day. The best part? No Humidity! No car horns or sirens! No mobs of tourists! Just a pleasant breeze, singing birds, and a shining sun…almost too good to be true. After breakfast, we packed a bag of snacks (breakfast bars, apples, popcorn, water) and waited for our driver to pick us up for our wine tour.
There are a lot of wineries in the region that won’t let limos or buses in their parking lots. This is because they don’t want rowdy crowds of people taking up all the space in a tasting room. Now, with that being said, you can still take, let’s say, your frat brothers or your bridal party to the Finger Lakes for some fun. But if you want prime parking, think about finding someone with a van. Someone like Charles.
Charles Limousine Service:
No, Charles isn’t paying me to write this. He really is that great! His knowledge of wine is endless and he knows just about everything when it comes to the wineries in the Finger Lakes region. He’ll take you anywhere you want to go or recommend the best wineries in your given lake area. But the best part? Besides your own private, Dodge SXT minivan? The price. Out of all the tour services, Charles charges only $90/hour for three-four guests ($100/hour if five-six). Just be sure to pay in cash. Do the math for an 11am-4pm tour, and that’s just a little over $100pp. Which is much better than the typical six-hour tour at $300pp.
Visit Charles’ website
Other affordable Keuka Trail Tours:
Wine Tradition and Innovations:
$119pp
Four Wineries
Includes tastings and food pairings
Public Tour, five-guest minimum for tour to occur
$445/ 5 hours (4-6 people)
Private, customizable tour
Does not include wine or beer tastings
Pick up and drop off at desired location
THE WINERIES:
Now we’re at the good part. The Finger Lakes are a really special place for wine. Why, you ask? There’s a little science behind it. The Finger Lakes are most known for Riesling varieties, but the region is also great for growing grapes like Pinot Noir. This is because all 11 lakes help to control temperatures in unbearable summers and bitter winters. Because water cools and warms more slowly than the air, the incredible amount of lakes and volume of water moderates surrounding air temperatures, making happier wines, wine drinkers, and wine grapes. Yay science!
Weis Vineyards
Peter Weis was born in Germany and came to America after earning degrees in winemaking, business and agriculture. Both his knowledge and creativity is expressed in his wines. Not only does Peter produce an excellent German Riesling, but Weis Vineyards also carries a very special, hybrid wine all their own. Peter collaborated with students at Cornell University to make a never-before-seen grape, producing a beautiful white wine they call Heart of the Lake. If this doesn’t excite you, then maybe you’ll go after I tell you that Peter’s pretty easy on the eyes. A handsome winemaker and tasty wines can be a dangerously fun combination.
Prices:
$5 to taste fives wines
Receive a complimentary wine glass
Bottles range from $17-32
Entering the Weis tasting room
Visit website
McGregor Winery
While any Pinot Noir and the Sunflower white is excellent, the signature wine at McGregor’s is the Black Russian Red. This wine is a blend of two unique grapes: Saperavi (from the country of Georgia) and Sereksya Charni (from Ukraine, Armenia, and Romania). Founders Bob and Marge McGregor have been perfecting these grapes in New York since their first planting in 1980, and their dedication really shows. The Russian Red is $60 per bottle and is reserved to taste only for Wine Club members; but put on your best “I appreciate good wine” face and I bet you’ll get lucky.
Prices:
$5 to taste five wines
Cheese, cracker, pesto, and chocolate are included to pair while you taste
Bottles range from $9-100
Visit website
Ravines Wine Cellars
Charles told us that there are about 7-8 out-of-this-world wineries in the Finger Lakes. Ravines is the only one not in the Seneca lake region (although there is a Ravines in Seneca, too…). The husband and wife team are a dynamite combination of winemaker/oenologist (Morten Hallgren) and chef (Lisa Hallgren). Together, they serve some of the best, Old World-prepped Rieslings in the United States. In addition to any dry and sweet Riesling, the effervescent Sparkling Brut is truly something to behold.
Prices:
$5 for five wines, $8 for five wines and chocolate pairing
Limited Production wines (like the Sparkling Brut) are an extra $1 per pour.
Bottles range from $10-80
Visit website
Rooster Hill Vineyards
Besides the Black Russian, there was another very special red wine I tasted in the Finger Lakes. The grape was called Lemberger, and it was from Rooster Hill. The vineyard offers breathtaking views of the lake with a lovely outdoor setting perfect for a picnic. In the rustically quaint tasting room, you can taste their award-winning Rieslings, in addition to some of their other life-changing wines. For reference: I used to be a very vocal Chardonnay-hater, but Rooster Hill’s rendered me speechless. In addition to a clean-tasting, not-at-all creamy chardonnay, the Lemberger Reserve is just fruity enough with a touch of spice to prevent the wine from tasting too flabby or sweet.
Prices:
$8 to taste five wines
Bottles range from $13-25
Amazing views courtesy of Rooster Hill
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Domaine Leseurre
This winery appeared to be the most popular on our tour. We had to wait a couple minutes before finding a spot in the open and airy tasting room, but watching winemaker Sebastian Leseurre slide about the space in his socks, happily pouring wine for a giddy bridal party, was great entertainment. Maybe that’s why people like this winery so much: Sebastian and wife Celine take their French-inspired wines seriously but also derive great fun from their experiences creating Old World wines in a New World wine region. Their wines are imbued with an original style that speaks to the beauty and diversity of the Finger Lakes.
Prices:
$5 for five wines
$18 for five wines and a French-inspired charcuterie board
Bottles range from $18-60
Visit website
What are you Waiting For?
Summer isn’t over yet, and August and September—when the grapes are really growing—are the most perfect months to visit any winery in the Finger Lakes region. Gather your friends to celebrate someone’s birthday, enjoy a spontaneous getaway, or even plan a romantic couples’ retreat! No matter what the occasion—or even if there’s no occasion at all—The wine trails of the Finger Lakes are perfect waiting for you. Get out there and enjoy the rest of the summer.
